| | Ponding 101
Welcome to Ponding 101!
 |
Here we will discuss many things associated with building and maintaining a
pond
and/or water garden. This will include Frequently Asked Questions and
Basic Rules of Thumb as well as conversion charts which will help with sizing. |
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This page will be under continual construction and additions will be added
often.
LivingPonds Construction Guides
Savio's 32 page guide to building a pond. To view this
file you need Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0 or higher. For PC users: To
download, right click on file and select 'save target as'
Livingpond Construction Guide (PDF:5.38MB)
New guide for the Savio Compact 550 Mini Pond Kit
PP550 Instructions (PDF:5.91 MB) |
Filtration:
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Filter Size:
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| To appreciate the
beauty of a pond, maintenance needs to be easy and the water needs to look
clean. An effective filter creates clean and clear water with only a few
light cleanings a year. The smaller the filter, the poorer the water
quality. Greater surface area is the key to less cleanings and more
efficient cleaning. A proper filter traps light debris, prevents cloudy
water and creates a healthy equal ecosystem. |
Filter size requirements vary depending on the water
temperature, sunlight, stocking capacity, feeding habits, waste loads,
cleaning requirements and local water chemistry. For a low maintenance water
garden, a good rule of thumb is for the bio-mechanical filter too hold at
least 3-7% of the total volume of the pond water in the filter. |
Combined Filtration is the best way
to maintain consistent clear water:
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Adding a valve:
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| Using bio-logical and mechanical
filtration is usually not enough. Adding a skimmer discretely built into the
pond edging can drastically reduce the maintenance on your pond. The top
layer of water is pulled in to the collection area which traps surface
debris before they sink to the bottom. This can cut down bottom waste by up
to 85%. Adding an Ultra violet clarifier (UV or UVC) is another part
of the filtration system that will keep the pond looking crystal clear. A
UVC is a specialized in-line chamber that exposes unwanted organisms in pond
water to a high intensity ultraviolet light. Thus killing most types of
algae and clearing the water of green. |
Avoid getting a
pump that is not strong enough. Always select a pump that is one size up
from your best conservative estimate and add a ball valve after the pumps
discharge. This way you can control the water that is discharged and have a
greater overall control. A diverter valve may also be used to divert the
water into 2 different sources and to control the amount of water to each
source. |
Choosing
the right filter...Which is right for me:
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This is a big question
that we get presented with all the time. With so many filters on the
market; biological, mechanical, pressurized, upflow, bead...you must
be going crazy! I will explain the difference here:
I will start with Bio Filters like the
Tetra
Clear Choice Filters and the
FishMate
Biological Filters. These filters sit on the outside edge of the
pond. They are noticeable but can be hidden with landscaping or
placed under a deck. The water is pushed from a submersible pump up
to the filters inlet and then the water spills out and down by
gravity. These filters are usually called bio filters, mechanical
filters or gravity fed filters. These filters are great for
filtering the water and some of the filters even come with a UVC
built right in or an option to add one. They usually filter the
water with a foam pad or multiple pads of different types such as
carbon impregnated filters and a course polyester pad. There are
sometimes other media as well for the bacteria to attach to like
plastic bio media balls, lava rock, Supra Media (a natural rock
substrate) or the like.
Pressurized filters like the
FishMate Pressurized
Filters,
OASE Pressurized Filters and Tetra Pressurized Filters (coming
soon) are becoming our most popular filters as they can be buried
about 2/3 of the way in the ground which makes concealing them easy.
They also have multiple foam pads and a bio media like the bio
filters above. And an optional UVC built in on some models. The best
thing about these filters is that they can lift water up to a
waterfall or stream. They do this because these are enclosed and
sealed with clamps therefore when the water is pushed up from the
submersible pump into the filters inlet, pressure is built up inside
the filter and will push the water through tubing up to a your water
feature. It is recommended that you refrain from lifting water more
than 3-4ft of total head lift from the filter up the point of
discharge. There is another great feature on some of these
pressurized filters and that is a unique backwash feature. On the
FishMate filters this is called
Powerclenz
and you would just turn the dial on the top of the filter to
discharge the waste from within the filter. The OASE Filters have a
plunger type backwash feature which you move up and down to remove
the waste. On the Tetra Filters it is also a dial like the FishMate
filters. The backwash feature explained more in detail allows you to
hook up a 2nd discharge tube from the filter to your garden and
reverse the flow by just turning a dial or raising a lever on the
filter. This will take the waste from the filter and discharge it
into the garden or other area.
Upflow filters are used on the more professional installations.
These filters are large boxes that have been engineered to filter
your pond very efficiently. They use a filter pad usually made from
polyester as well as a bio media that you will usually need to add
yourself into a usually included media bag. Here are just a few of
the Upflow Filter Models:
Savio Living Ponds,
Atlantic Water Gardens and
PuriFalls.
These filters are also waterfall boxes. Meaning that when the water
is pushed up through the media it flows over a waterfall lip or what
is referred to as a weir. There are a few models of upflow filters
that discharge the water through a 2" pipe rather than over the
weir. You can use an Upflow Filter with a submersible or external
pump. They are most commonly used in combination with a
Skimmer to cut
down on maintenance but the
Skimmer is not
required.
Bead filters are the high end in filtration used mostly with Koi
ponds or when the pond builder wants a convenient yet excellent
filtration device. Also, great for heavy fish loads. The most
popular Bead filters would be the
Aqua
Ultima II Filters. Bead filters are shaped like a barrel and are
filled with media beads. Media beads allow the beneficial bacteria
to propagate in the filter. These are plastic media with tons of
surface area. The
Aqua
Ultima II Filters are easily backwashed by the flip of a lever
using an internal jet washing system. Bead filters can usually be
buried for hiding. Since the filters are sealed they can withstand
pressure up to 50PSI (Ultima
II Filters) and can push the water up many feet of head lift.
You would mostly use an External pump such as the
Sequence Centrifugal Pumps with them although you can also use
some of the high pressure submersible pumps like the
CalPump
Waterfall or the
Torpedo Pumps.
In your figuring you will want to take off 10ft of head lift for the
resistance in the filter. This means that if you are choosing an
Aqua Ultima II 2000
you would choose a pump such as the
CalPump PW3000,
the Sequence
3200SEQ20 or the
Sequence 6000PRM17
If you look at the gallons per hour discharge at 10ft on these pumps
you will see that the numbers falls at or below 2000 gph which is
the rating the filter. |
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Selecting a Pump: |
| For
healthy filtration the pumps needs to be strong enough to circulate the
total volume of water through the filter once per one or two hours. The
minimum should be 500 gph per hour. There are many things to consider when
choosing a pump: |
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Head Pressure: |
Friction Loss: |
| Pumps incur
resistance as they move water from the pond to the filter, waterfall
or water feature. The water a pump circulates is reduced the farther
and higher the pump has to push the water. Gravity create pressure
which decreases the pumps output. Pumps are rated for the amount of
water they can pump without resistance. A 1000 gph pump is usually
at 1000 gallons of water per hour without a pipe connected. (Refer
to individual pump flow charts for detailed information) |
Friction
diminishes pump performance as the water travels through plumbing.
Every 10' of horizontal travel through pipe is equal to 1' of
vertical head lift. Avoid too many curves or sharp angles in the
tubing. Do not undersize the pipe or tubing that you connect to your
pump and filter otherwise the flow will be reduced. Refer to our
friction loss and our Pipe chart below. |
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| Pipe
Size: |
Waterfall: |
| Gallons per
hour, not the diameter of the pumps discharge is the way to
determine proper pipe size. Many people undersize there plumbing and
cheat themselves of the optimum pump flow. Proper pipe size is
determined by the maximum GPH capacity of the pump. See Pipe Size
chart below. |
Some people
will opt for two pumps when they have a waterfall. First; when you
choose a pump for a waterfall you will want to go with this rule of
thumb: 1000 gph per foot of width. There are a few differences in
which this will vary. (See Waterfall width chart below) You will
also want to consider the proper amount of flow required for your
filtration system and this is where the second pump comes in handy.
Lets say you have a 3' wide waterfall and your pond has a volume of
1000 gallons of water. Well rule of thumb says that you need 3000
gph for your waterfall but just 500 - 1000 gph for proper
filtration. You would install a smaller pump for filtration and a
larger pump for your waterfall. This is also handy if one of the
pumps should breakdown, you will have a spare. |
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Below or
Above the water level: |
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| 99% of the
pumps that we sell must be located below the pond surface level.
This is called "Flooded Suction". Gravity forces the water into the
pump and therefore creating a prime. We do have external pumps that
are either self priming or require a priming pot or leaf trap to be
operated above the water level. |
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Installing a Pond: |
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Location: |
Shape: |
| When you
chose a location be sure the pond will be easily viewed and accessed
from the home. Design it to become part of the everyday landscape.
Avoid placing the pond under pine or fruit bearing trees. Place the
pond in a location that will receive plenty of sun in all seasons.
The ideal pond size is large enough to act as the focal point of the
yard and dominate the chosen viewing area. |
Natural
shapes are usually the choice for most with smooth curving such as a
jelly bean or kidney bean shape. These are generally the most
popular. Formal shapes are done to keep geometric form where needed.
These shapes would be the round, square or rectangle. |
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Bad
Shapes: |
Size: |
| Avoid
eccentric shapes with sharp curves and niches as these will allow
for water stagnation and create excessive folds in the liner which
will allow for a build of debris. |
The most common complaint from pond owners after the
pond is complete, is that there pond is too small. A pond shrinks once you
add rocks, aquatic plants, landscape, etc. Small ponds can get lost in the
landscape. Larger ponds are also easier and less costly to maintain.
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Depth: |
Underlayment: |
| In areas
that get hotter or colder then normal, you should consider going no
less than 3-5'. For others and in general a good minimum pond depth
ranges from 2-5'. Deeper ponds lose less water due to evaporation
and stay more stable during seasonal changes and support fish better
over the winter. Always allow for plant ledges and keep safety in mind when you have
small children. |
A non woven
GeoTextile underlayment will add the extra protection sometimes
needed under your liner and will also help with moisture and gases
that can accumulate under the liner. Moisture is able to absorb into
the underlayment and evaporate out and gases from organic soil
material are able to release. GeoTextile can also be used on
top of the liner when you will be placing larger or sharp rocks and
boulders that may puncture the liner. |
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Liner: |
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| This is the
foundation of your pond. Choose a product that is fish safe, long
lasting and that has a good warranty and reputation such as
Firestone PondGard and Dupont/Tetra Xavan. Both products are made
exclusively for ponds and have a typical life span of 70-80 years.
Avoid using preformed plastic ponds as they become brittle and crack
usually within just 2-5 years. PVC and Polyethylene also do not
provide long life expectancy. Never trust roofing liners or "EPDM
Liner". Firestone PondGard liner is EPDM Liner that is manufactured
in the USA under specifications that make the product "Fish Safe".
Roofing liners are treated with an algaecide that is toxic to fish
and plants. Other companies pushing an "EPDM Product" may be pushing
a product from another country that just is not manufactured to the
United State's quality standards. This is your foundation and should
not be skimped on. You would not want to pull up your pond in 3-5
years to replace the liner would you? |
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Sizing Formulas:
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Liner and Underlayment Sizing Formula |
Determining Pond Volume |
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To
figure your pond liner size: Take your measurements: Maximum width,
Maximum length and Maximum depth. Now take your maximum depth and
multiply this number by 2. Take this figure and add 2 for your overhang
(this is counted as 1' for each side multiplied by 2). Now take your
total and add to your maximum width and add the same number to your
maximum length. You will most likely need to round up to match one on
the pre-cut liner sizes.
Here is an example: Maximum width = 5'
Maximum length = 10' Maximum depth = 2.5' (2 x's 2.5' = 5' + 2 = 7)
(7 + 5 = 12' width) (7 + 10 = 17' length) So you would need a liner
close to 12' x 17' and the closest would be 15' x 20'. You could also
back fill, re-measure and see if you can get your measurements to 10' x
15'. |
Rectangular pond: Length x Width
x Depth x 7.5 = Gallons
Round Pond: 3.14 r2 x Depth x 7.5 = Gallons
(r2 = Half pond diameter times itself)
Natural Ponds: Length x Width x .8 x Depth x
7.5 = Gallons
(.8 compensates for lack of corners. Use .85 for ponds 400 plus square
feet) |
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Conversions |
Pipe Size |
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1 Teaspoon = ~5 ml |
100 Drops per teaspoon |
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1 Tablespoon = ~ 15 ml |
300 Drops per teaspoon |
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1 US Gallons = 3.78 L |
3 Teaspoons per Tablespoon |
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8oz in a cup |
2 Tablespoons per ounce |
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16oz in a pint |
16 cups in a gallon |
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32oz in a quart |
Volts x Amps
= Watts |
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128oz in a gallon |
1/8th = 0.12 HP |
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1 Gallon of Water Weighs 8lbs |
1/6th = 0.14 HP |
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1/4th = 0.25 HP |
Watts � Volts
= Amps |
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Undersized pipe restricts optimum water flow. Never select your pipe
size based on the pumps discharge size. Pipe sizing should be selected
based on the Gallons per hour/minute of the pump. For every 25' of pipe
run, increase your pipe size by 1/2" diameter.
| Pump GPH |
PVC Pipe ID |
| 0-300 |
1/2" |
| 300-700 |
3/4" |
| 700-1200 |
1" |
| 1200-1800 |
1-1/4" |
| 1800-3000 |
1-1/2" |
| 3000-4800 |
2" |
| 4800-9000 |
3" |
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Abbreviations |
Fish Stocking |
GPH = U.S. Gallons Per Hour
GPM = U.S. Gallons Per Minute
FPT = Female Pipe Thread
MPT = Male Pipe Thread
FNPT = Female National Pipe Thread
MNPT = Male National Pipe Thread
S = In fittings this would stand for Slip or Solvent End
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1 - Adult Koi per 10 Square feet of pond
surface area or 1 - Adult Gold Fish per 2 Square feet of pond surface
area. Consider size. Average size koi and goldfish.
Rule of thumb: 1 sq. ft. of pond surface area for every inch of fish.
We recommend starting with 1/2 the maximum stocking to allow for fish
growth and reproduction. |
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Plant Stocking |
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| 1 - Mature Lily per 15-20 square feet of
surface area. Place as many bog plants as desired. If fish are present,
cover no more than 70% of the total pond surface area with plants and
have no more than one, 1 gallon pot of oxygenators per 500 gallons of
pond water. |
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Rocks and Boulders |
Waterfall Width Chart |
Quantity (approx.) of rocks to use in a 2 foot deep pond:
Length x Width / 65 = Qty. of boulders used in the pond (tons)
Example: 10 ft. x 5 ft. / 65 = 0.77 tons of boulders
Quantity of �" to 3" gravel to use in pond:
Multiply the qty. of boulders (tons) x 0.45
Example: 0.77 tons of boulders x 0.45 = 0.35 tons of gravel
Quantity of boulders to use in a stream:
� ton per 10 ft. of stream length
Quantity of �" to 3" gravel used in the stream:
� ton per 10 ft. of stream length
Boulders for Facing:
You'll need approximately � to 1 � tons of boulder to build around the
face of your biological filter |
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Width of Weir
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Thickness of Water
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|
(GPH per ft) |
Smooth Weir |
Stone/rough Weir |
| 360 |
1/4" |
3/16" |
| 600 |
3/8" |
5/16" |
| 900 |
1/2" |
3/8" |
| 1680 |
3/4" |
9/16" |
| 2400 |
1" |
3/4" |
| 4500 |
1 |
1-1/4" |
| 6720 |
2" |
1-3/4" |
For streams where the water is not
sheeting but rather flowing gently you can use 1/2 of the GPH
recommended above. |
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Some Common Frequently Asked Questions |
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Do I need a filter? |
How often should I clean my filter? |
| If you desire a clear pond you should install a filter. We recommend two
filters for water gardens - A mechanical skimmer filter to protect and
hide the pump outside the pond and skim the pond of dust & debris and a
biological filter to keep the water clear and safe for fish and a
Biological filter such as an Up-flow, Pressurized or Gravity Fed Filter.
|
Mechanical filters should be cleaned whenever they slow the flow of
water to the pump. Smaller, in-pond filters may have to be cleaned
daily, and that is why we recommend larger, mechanical filters like out
of pond Skimmers. These are usually cleaned about once a week. It takes
about 5 minutes to empty the net and clean the mats. Biological filters
should not be cleaned except when they are so blocked that water flow is
diminished. A large biological filter, like the Up-flow waterfall type
filters are generally only cleaned once per year. |
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Do I have to add fish? |
Do I need a bottom drain? |
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No, but fish do eat mosquitoes and are recommended. They are very easy
to care for, help eat pond algae and can be trained to eat out of your
hand. Fish also add life and color to your pond. |
Bottom drains promote better pond water recirculation through the
filters, so they keep your pond water clearer and safer for fish. They
are a must for koi ponds and recommended for any water garden over 3
feet deep or more than 2000 gallons. They can be added to a pond very
easily if using an out of pond skimmer or attached to the intake of an
external pump. We recommend attaching a bottom drain direct to an
external pump. This will guarantee more flow into the bottom drain. When
attaching a a bottom into a skimmer you can realize a flow of just 10%
on average of what the pump is pushing. |
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I have green water...How do I get rid of
it? |
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There are three ways to combat green water. First is getting the pond
equal and in balance. Second with the use of chemical additives like
AlgaeFix. Third with the use of an
Ultraviolet clarifier (UVC).
You also may look into shading the pond. Plants are the best way to do
this and the prettiest. There are also water tints such as
Algae Blocker. Also,
try to not make drastic additions of tap water. The natural salts from
the chlorine in the water can feed the algae and create a big algae
problem. Instead add water in small amounts and treat the water with a
chloramine neutralizer. |
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External Pumps |
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1. Locate the pump as close to the source as
possible. It is best to have your main (longest) run of pipe on the
discharge side of the pump. The pump is designed to push water, not
pull it. |
2. Install the pump outside the pond, and if
possible below the level of the surface of the pond (flooded
suction). This will help insure a proper supply of water to the
pump. Remember, a pump can�t pump out water if there isn�t any
available. Even if your supply line comes up and over the top of the
pond wall, it will still offer a flooded suction if it has no breaks
to atmosphere before it goes back down below the surface level, and
if all air is removed. |
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3. If it is not possible to provide a flooded suction installation
then:
A. Position the pump as low as possible, and as near the source as
possible. (A pump one foot above the surface works better than one
six feet above the surface.)
B. Install basket strainer on the inlet of the pump or provide some
other priming source.
C. Suction piping should slope gently upward to the pump or strainer
inlet.
D. Install a foot valve, or a check valve in the inlet line below
the water level.
E. Always prime the entire inlet line, basket strainer, and pump
before turning it on.
F. If your pipe has a high spot (as in lower right illustration),
install a tee at the highest spot and use this
spot to prime the suction line, (or to
bleed off air if pump is higher than the tee) |
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The above information is used for guideline
purposes only and the information should be verified with a professional
before proceeding.
Safety should
always be a #1 concern.
We will not be liable for any damages caused by
misuse or mishandling or any harm caused by the information that we
provide above. |
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This information is free to use by our
customers as a tool in assisting them to purchase our products and
problem solve. Others please do not take our information as it is
considered theft. If you would like to use the information above on
your website or in print, please submit this to us in writing.
Copyright 1999-2007 123Ponds.com |
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